Fine Homebuilding is a great magazine that I have subscribed to off and on for many years. As I detailed in the previous blog post, it even has pictures of my work!
Today, I wanted to point out that there is a great article on rolling hardware in the JAN-2014 issue.
The writer is (of course) a professional and he goes over all the different kinds available. He goes over a couple brands of hardware and even covers the brand I mostly use: Johnson Hardware. See: Johnsonhardware.com
On Johnson’s website they have it broken down in categories. I don’t use the wall mount hardware much see: http://www.johnsonhardware.com/wmindex.htm
I would use it more if I was doing more condo jobs. When I use it, I glue a 3/8″ piece of matching wood right onto the metal fascia. This looks a hundred times better and is a quick solution. I don’t care for a “mill finish” metal band anywhere near my nice doors. I always hide it.
The hardware pictured on the cover of Fine Homebuilding is from I think: Rustica. see at:
Rusticahardware.com
In the article, author/carpenter: Gary M. Katz mentions that when you buy the tracks, make sure there is a way to mount it securely.
Gary explains that most tracks are predrilled for the mounting holes. If you use this type, you must have a header in the wall AND you must extend that header at least the width of the door on the side the door will slide. Rustica makes a tube type (not mentioned in the article) that has a different type mounting hardware: http://rusticahardware.com/box-track-barn-door-hardware/
This type hardware is great for existing conditions. If you can’t tear out and install a header, you will need to position the mounting posts on top of the stud. This will require the installer to locate each stud and mark the wall at the stud center. You will also undoubtedly need a board mounted on top of the studs, the length of the track. If you don’t have a board there,as you tighten the lag bolts on the posts, it will crush the drywall. The thickness of this board may be determined by the thickness of the base as that will push the centerline of the door out from the wall. I think it’s best to get the hardware first and measure it . The company does NOT provide all the details on their site and in the article, Gary does NOT have any base to deal with.
I have one ordered RIGHT NOW from Rustica and I am awaiting it’s arrival so I can determine what the heck I must do. That’s the way it goes around here sometimes. if you have questions, write me as I may be able to help.
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